Hello and welcome to my blog! In today’s post I will detail the process of building the wire passthrough for a wall mounted electronics console of American black walnut. The passthrough will be incorporated into a solid wood cabinet back. In addition to completing the cabinet back, I have detailed the process of finish planing the outside of the case, using hand planes.
This post will be light on photos. I caught some sort of bug in the later half of the week, so while I was in the workshop I was remaining solely focused on the work and not documenting the work as I normally would. In fact most of the time was spent trying to avoid moving from my seated position on the floor and hoping the tools and lumber would magically come to me.
The work began by cutting material for an interior molding, supporting frame and panels. The panels were book matched across the back, but rather than use the full width of material available I chose to use only the rift cut sections. The rift sections will reduce the amount of wood movement I’ll have to work around, ultimately allowing for a much tighter fit in winter that will not buckle in the summer humidity.
Shown here were the full panels that I started with, which were cut down into rift sections, putting aside the center flat sawn sections.
The moldings and framing supports were dimensioned then finish planed. Radial grain has a surprising tendency to tear out, and hide the tear out well. The chip breaker must be set fairly tight in order to get a shaving which behaves as it should.
The resulting finished parts awaiting joinery.
The molding was cut out to fit around the support and then cut to form a mitered corner at the bottom.
The molding is a bit heavier than typical for this sort of application in order to support the frame at the case sides. Shown here I’m chopping out mortises for the frame members which will run along the back of the case.
The frame members are rabbeted along their edges in order to hold panels.
The cutout begins first by chopping a ‘V’ shape, then chopping the sides square.
Two slats are now installed. The layout is set to allow the passthrough to be in the center of the back, from the inside of the case, but appears to be off center in view from the back due to the supporting cleat.
The pass through will be formed by a pair of uprights.
The uprights are in place, and I’ve begun cutting and fitting panels. The uprights are made slightly thinner than the horizontal framing members to allow for continuous chamfers on the inside of the case.
The panels are captured at the center support with a very small rabbet. The center support needed to be made flush to the panels.
The panels will be cinched in place by the exterior molding, here I’m cutting notches in the molding to accommodate horizontal battens.
I determined that the client will likely put all of the electronics on one side of the case, making it easier to run all of the wires from one side, and so I blocked off the opposing side. I have made it easy to remove the panel if the opposing pass through is needed. The batten supports which capture the panels come together using a lapping joint at the center.
The resulting appearance from the inside of the case shows continuous chamfers along the frame members, molding and uprights.
Finally the completed back from the outside of the case.
The battens are held tight at the case sides by the cutouts shown above. I do attempt to clock most of my screws, but brass screws are a delicate item and so over-torquing them for aesthetic purpose is not advisable.
Should this have been a visible back I would have made efforts to conceal this area, but I found the result acceptable for a back completely hidden by a wall.
Now that the majority of the work to be performed on the cabinet is completed, with only the shelved remaining, I decided it was time to finish plane and oil the exterior case. The case having been only lightly finish planed prior to cutout.
Finish Planing Part 1 – Commentary starts at about 1 minute 55 seconds in.
Finish Planing Part 2. The commentary is geared toward a request that I had received for information on finish planing.
The resulting surface creates a nice even sheen which reflects at a low angle.
Thank you for following along with this build, I hope that you are enjoying and I look forward to your comments.
Get well soon, I need to learn much more from you. Thank you for the time and effort you put into educating people like myself.
Feeling much better, thank you! The pleasure is mine of course, glad that you are enjoying!
As always your work is outstanding! Try and optimise your pictures to bring so they can display quicker on screen but that’s not what I wanted to comment on.
Ever since I bought the 5 1/2 I’ve noticed that I’ve eliminated scalloping altogether, I know the 4 1/2 is the same width just shorter in length and I’ve been thinking about selling my 4 and replacing it with the 4 1/2. It’s odd though both planes have the same amount of camber yet both produce different results. I wonder if the width of the iron is the cause.
Thanks Salko! Interesting, I suppose I notice much smaller or almost imperceivable scallops when I use the 70mm Japanese plane, which is about 60mm at the cutting edge and probably closer to your 5-1/2″ in blade width. I prefer to use that plane, but when the panels are assembled and without the support of a bench I find it more difficult to use a longer plane.
I suspect you’re right in that the wider the plane the easier it is to make the scallops disappear.
I too find it difficult because of the lack of support, sometimes even with the 4 I get chatter but none with the 5 1/2. I do agree the blade width has everything to do with it to reduce or even almost eliminate the scallops. Some people like them to show it’s handmade but they do show up in finishes which for me personally isn’t appealing. If in 100 years or more an antique dealer pulls it apart and can’t tell the difference between hand and machine, either I’m that bloody good or hand tooling has been altogether extinct long ago.
Haha, that is something to strive for, if anything they’ll be hardly expecting something from the 21st century to be hand made. I tend to agree, minimal scallops are more appealing, I don’t like seeing them at all, but I don’t mind feeling them if they’re very minor.
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