1. Excellent work as usual Brian. I’ve been wondering what kind of glue you use when veneering the top? Also is that a replaceable blade Mitsukawa Ryoba? I’ve been eyeing one of those from Mandaraya. If that’s indeed the saw sounds like it’s working out well for you.

    Jon Billing
    1. Thank you Jon! I use Better Bond glue for veneering. I’ve used Ultra Cat as well, with good success but I don’t veneer often enough to actually consume the smallest quantity of glue and so I found myself throwing it out too often. Better bond keeps for much longer.

      That is the replaceable blade Shirogane from Mitsukawa, I’ve been very happy with them and acquired through Mandaraya.

  2. Like what you are doing Brian , great work.
    If you don’t mind me asking , why are you using western style planes ?
    Is it because you already had them or do you prefer them above japanese style planes {kanna} ?

    1. Hi Juryann,

      Thank you! My preference is for wooden planes, both western and Japanese, I do also enjoy the #4 LN in bronze. I have a LN jointer which I use as a shooting plane, and a LN jack which I use a rough shooting plane, for when I need to take a lot of material from an edge quickly. I have two smoothers, one Japanese Kanna and one LN #4, which are set at different bedding angles, the Kanna is set at about 38 degrees and the #4 at 45 degrees. 38 degrees helps to make a very smooth surface of softer hardwoods and softwoods, while the #4 is more for my typical use, being quite a handy plane.

      My western woodies, a Jack and Try plane were made for me by David Weaver, and they do a wonderful job of roughing and truing boards. Kanna can be setup similarly, but this is my preference for my work style.

      You’ll see more and more kanna and western woodies showing up over time, especially those made for specific types of joinery.

  3. Terrific work Brian, both in design and execution, quite the inspiration for me.
    A few questions for you: Carpet? Do you sweep everything up with the Festool I see in the corner of some shots?
    Can you write a word or two about your shooting board? It seems to have a return on the back that you use when sawing. Also, how tall is the edge mitering attachment? Do you find it sufficiently tall?
    Your workbench looks like couple layers of chopping block with a dog block row attached to the front, true? Is that working well for you? I ask because I am not set up to do the large scale stock preparation required for a traditional top and am searching out other options.
    Thank you for taking the time to share your work methods and projects, very educational for me.

    Joe Frucci
    1. Hi Joe, thank you for your comments and questions!

      When I took over part of the basement to turn into a workshop, one of the requirements was that I had to wear out the carpet before replacing it with wood….unfortunately it wears like steel.

      The shooting board does have a return, both for sawing and for planing, and sometimes for chiseling as well, basically anytime I need work backed up. The miter setup was makeshift specifically for this assembly, but I have designs on a quality donkey ear attachement.

      When I built my workbench I was in the same situation as you are, building how I did which it is industrial workbench top with a dog row and vises. I had some issues with movement and ultimately had to make some significant battens for the underside of it. All told I think it was much more work than a proper lamination.

      I will rebuild the bench In a few years and that industrial workbench section will be replaced. At which point I will also make the bench significantly narrower.

  4. Pingback: Humidor Build – Casework | Brian Holcombe Woodworker

  5. Pingback: Humidor Build - Casework - Brian Holcombe Woodworker

Leave a Reply